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   Cambodia-Demons Beneath the Earth
Photodocumentary by Rachel Pfotenhauer


Yus Pisey, 36, was 25 when she stepped on a mine on her way to the lake to take a bath. She was married and had a son. It happen on the Thai border, so they took her to a refugee camp to recover in Thailand. The government would not let her son and husband into Thailand. She was in the camp for 2 years. She never saw them again and didn't look because she felt she would be a burden. The VVAF taught her how to sew and employed her as a seamstress. She is now married to another landmine victim.

  • Photo documentary
  •   Some of the Khmer people say there are demons beneath the earth. They pray to Buddha that they will not step on the demon and make it angry. They hope they were good in their last life so now they will not step in the wrong place. They know the demons are underneath them but they must farm their rice and wash their clothes. The small Buddha statue hangs around their neck. They rub it and pray.

    There are an estimated 7 to 9 million mines buried in Cambodia, one mine to every person. Some 35,000 to 45,000 people have lost a limb to landmines. The government reports about 300-400 new victims a month. One in five of these is a child who rarely survive the blast. Eight out of 10 victims are civilians. Often mines are laid in areas of heavy foot traffic like roads, bridges, near water or in the center of a village. Eighty percent of the victims knew they were in mined areas. They had no choice but to walk through in order to gather food or buy necessities.

    Malin
    I sit at a table in a restaurant at the National Center of Disabled Persons. A woman serves me a stir-fry and sits down with my interpreter, Pruen, and myself. She places her hands on the table and begins a conversation with Pruen. On both of her wrists are two deep vertical scars. She sees me noticing them and tries to place her hands elsewhere. I tell her it is OK. She says, "OK," and smiles at me. I smile back. Malin is a survivor of war, pol pot, landmines and despair. She is stronger than my imagination, because I cannot imagine how someone could carry on after the horrors of war.

    Malin was 20 years old when she stepped on the mine. She had dreams of being married and having children. When she heard the explosion, she thought she was going to die along with her dreams. The mine was only a hundred feet from her grandmother's house. The Cambodian army had recently come through, laying mines on the road because the Khmer Rouge were going to be on the same road. A man carried her to the hospital where they amputated her leg. She spent one night there before her mother took her home. Within two weeks she had slit her wrists twice, hoping to kill herself and relieve her mother from herself and her disability.

    "While I was in the hospital, the only thought that kept me alive was the image of my mother," said Malin. "Even though I did not want her to carry my burden, she was what made me want to keep on living. She was all I had then."

    Malin's mother sold everything in their house to pay off the hospital bills. They left their village in hopes of finding work or help in Phnom Penh. "We h ad very little," said Malin. "My mother begged the boatman to let us ride free to Phnom Penh. When we arrived we could not find any work. I had crutches made of wood and was begging on the streets for food and money. Everyday I looked for work but there was none to be had." Three weeks went by before a woman named Judy from the Christian World Service (CWS) saw Malin begging on the streets. "She saved my life," says Malin. "She took me to Calmette Hospital where I received a prosthesis from the Cambodia Trust. She also gave me money to go to school. I learned to walk again and that alone changed my life for the better. After my studies I got a job as a cook for the CWS and now I cook here."

    Malin tells me of her family; her dreams of marriage and children did not die after all. She had met her husband while working at the CWS, shortly after she gave birth to two boys, which bring her the most joy in life. Malin explains to me that for a woman in Cambodia it is very important to have children. Women who do not ever give birth are pitied. For Malin, she wants her sons to be educated to help support her when she is old.

    I ask Malin what she has learned from all her experiences in life.

    "I hear people say that one person cannot make a difference in a place like Cambodia," Malin says. She looks me straight in the eye. "Where would I be without Judy? She changed my life. She gave me hope when I had none. I am happy now. I feel useful again. All we want to feel is useful. She has opened my heart and I have learned compassion, before it was only a thought, now I know compassion."

    Pruen
    Pruen, now 28 years old, stepped on a landmine when he was 10 years old. He tells me of the day of his fate, predestination, the will of Buddha. It had been raining lightly, which made him happy because it had been hot for days. His mother and father, still together, alive and survivors of the Khmer Rouge camps, had told him he could go swimming and meet his friends at the lake.

    Walking there, his Buddha wrapped within his fingers, his lips moving in prayer, he was careful where he stepped. Pruen was aware there were mines in the area and knew what the consequences were of stepping on one. The Cambodian army had just come through and the monsoon rains were flooding the village and land. As the water rises it picks up the smaller mines and carries them into rice fields, lakes, roads and farms. The smaller the mines, the more stealth they are. They hide in unexpected places, beneath a lotus or by a stone on the side of a path. Designed to only maim, not kill unless you are a child. Children rarely survive the blast due to loss of blood. Pruen was old enough to survive.

    He remembers skipping down the path, excited to play with his friends. A wide stream of water trickled stones and debris into the mouth of the lake. A stone bridge was made to cross the stream. Pruen leapt from rock to rock as he has done many times before. "I faltered," says Pruen. "The rock tilted and I heard the click. Time stopped and the moment before the explosion, clarity of my reality filled my mind, horror and fear grabbed hold of me. There was a loud explosion. I saw my blood spray my screaming friends. The horror in their eyes revealed my future. All this in a moment. And then I fell into darkness."

    Pruen's friends carried him to the village hospital where he lay unconscious for a week. His left leg was amputated below the knee. When he awoke his family was there with crutches made of bamboo. He began the journey of rehabilitating his body, mind and spirit.

    "I am lucky I did not die," says Pruen. "I am also lucky because I have a family. Most children have only one parent because the other was killed in the camps, or they have no family at all." Pruen smiles at me. "Do you have two parents?" he asks.

    "Yes ," I replied.

    "You're are lucky," says Pruen. His expression turns serious, his eyes fixed on my recorder. "It is a difficult life here in Cambodia," says Pruen. "Our history has torn apart our civilization, our families and for some their sanity. To be handicapped is very difficult. We must work even harder, not only physically but also in educating the public about handicapped people. We are not "disabled," we are very "able" to do anything. Our minds are healthy, we are just missing a part of a limb, not part of a brain. We strive everyday to prove this to people."

    Pruen finished school. His parents heard of an non-government organization (NGO) that made prosthetics in Phnom Penh. Pruen received his prosthesis and training from the Vietnam Veterans of America Foundation (VVAF). Shortly thereafter Pruen landed a night time security job and studied English on his own time. His prosthetic training went so well he soon was on the handicap volleyball team and eventually became captain.

    "The limitations are in your mind," says Pruen. " There are limitations I have no control over because of the politics, or lack of, in my country. The poverty and our economic situation places certain boundaries around me."

    "Education is my power," says Pruen. "At one time it would mean death. Pol Pot ordered everyone that was educated and even those that wore glasses, to be executed. Tell me, do you not think people are still scared to learn to read and write; especially if they never saw their parents again because they spoke another language or were professors at a school? Many parents in the villages are still scared to let their children study. How can our country become civilized with a recent history of insanity and brutality?"

    It is true. Many Cambodians are uneducated mainly because of their recent history and widespread poverty. Most Khmer farm the rice fields and cannot afford to send their children to school but rather need them to work in the fields. The remote villages are extremely poor and have little contact with the rest of the country. The roads to these villages are radically damaged and take a long time to reach. This has limited the amount of access from outreach programs trying to get to families to inoculate them against polio and give them mosquito nets to decrease their chances of getting malaria. The people living in villages are mostly farmers and while they are educated in farming they lack the general knowledge that most of us learn in school. One less person in the field farming can make a big difference in what is on the dinner table.

    Chuen
    The Khmer also hold on to old traditions and taboos. A figure like a scarecrow hangs from a fence next to a bright green pond that rests beneath a Khmer's house on stilts. The pond, stagnant, glistened in the sun. Water lilies and lotus rise up proudly out of the water. I'm momentarily caught up by its beauty.

    "The scarecrow is there to ward off evil spirits that may infect the people," the VVAF outreach supervisor, Chuen, says. "Otherwise, known as cholera. We tell them to boil their water because the disease comes from the water. They don't always believe us. Try to understand that many of these people lived through the Pol Pot regime and they are used to being lied to. Their lack of education, our history, old traditions and superstitions keep them from trusting us."

    Chuen leads me down a path to a cluster of houses made of bamboo and wood. A young girl limps up the path. She has two braces on her legs. Chuen tells me she contracted Polio when she was 4 years old. She also has a problem with her hips, the bones didn't form correctly at birth. The girl looks at me tentatively. Her skin glistening from the sweat on her body. Her eyes are wide with excitement. I snap a picture; she looks down shyly and up again staring into the camera. She looks like she is searching for another world inside my lens. She removes her shirt and lets Chuen examine her braces around her hips and legs. Her skin is callused underneath the brace. Chuen adjusts the braces explaining to the mother how to prevent severe abrasion. The mother smiles at me and tells Chuen to tell me that she is very proud of her daughter. Her daughter walks to school and back everyday and studies in the evening. On cue, the girl walks quickly down the road, turns around and walks back. Her smile resembles a budding lotus, a pale pink petal, within it shimmering white pearls.

    Bud
    We went back to the VVAF rehabilitation center. A man from the United States sits in front of a photograph of a woman working at a weaving loom. The man, Bud, turns to me and tells me her name is Valentine. She stepped on a mine on Valentines day and lost both legs. I asked him what she was weaving. He is a VVAF director that runs a factory that employs primarily female land mine victims to make kramas, which are similar to American scarves. The employees cultivate mulberry worms, extract the silk, dye it from seasonal fruits and local plants and then weave it into kramas. Bud bought some property with his own money and divided it up into sections, built houses on each section and sold them all to his employees. Now employees give him monthly payments until they own their own house. The more kramas he sells the more employees he can hire and the more land he can buy.

    "I'm tired of hearing sob stories about landmine victims," Bud said. "It is an overload to the system hearing story after story. Lets talk about success. Valentine is a double amputee and no way could she find a job. I hired and trained her, now she is one of our best weavers. She is also married, has a child and owns her own house. A success story."

    Bud shows me a photograph of women and men finely dressed in the clothing they had woven and sewed. They were dancing with each other. All landmine victims. They looked regal and proud.

    Chuen, drives me back to the apartment in Phnom Penh. The image of the dancers swirl around my mind: An outcome of one man's perseverance. He had the idea for the factory; the VVAF accepted it. He conceived and delivered. Sixty lives changed for the good. One person can make a difference. I lay on the bed. My consciousness dissolves into black. I dream of a Khmer woman holding a lotus. She is in my room. Her smile pierces the darkness surrounding us.

    In 1997, 120 countries signed the Ottawa Land Treaty-a treaty designed to ban landmines worldwide. The United States was noticeably absent during the signing of the treaty. Write congress, senator or the President to inform them that you will not support a government that manufactures and sells landmines.

    If you want to support NGOs that help landmine victims with prosthetics, orthodics, training, and employment, contact the following organizations:

    Vietnam Veterans of America Foundation
    www.vvaf.org
    2001 S. Street, NW
    Washington, DC 20009
    (202) 483-9222

    Cambodia Trust Limb Project
    1675 Broadway
    NY, NY 10019-5820
    (212) 506-2560

    If you are interested in purchasing 100% organic silk kramas, write Rachel Pfotenhauer at rpphoto@fone.net. A website is being developed to view and purchase the kramas. 80% of sales goes directly back to the female landmine project in Prey Vihear.
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