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I first fell under her spell in Brazil four years ago when I saw two women kneeling by the oceanside offering her plates of rice and eggs. I watched the tide rise quickly as the waves swept the food and plates into the the blue water.
Her temple was nearby. Inside, the light was dim. The smell of burning candles, flowers, and baskets of cologne and soap permeated the air. I was surrounded by brown and white mermaids, some with chipped noses and all of them adorned with coins, shells and jewelry. Murals of sea life covered the walls creating an underwater fantasy world. Among the intoxicating sights and smells of the temple and the fervor of Yemanja's worshipers, I recognized something profound. Suddenly, the mystical awe of the sea I had felt as a child returned. The half-woman, half-fish mythological creature known to me only as a destructive siren was now a proctective deity. African slaves from the Yoruba region brought their beliefs of Yemanja to Brazil, Cuba and Puerto Rico. Although forced to convert to Catholocism, many continued worshipping their Orixas by matching them, according to their characteristics, with Catholic saints. Yemanja was paired with the Virgin Mary. On February 2nd, in Brazil, it is customary to honor Yemanja by offering her gifts. Boats are sent out to sea bearing baskets of presents for her. The entire coast of Salvador is said to transform into an ornate place of worship. I left Brazil entranced. I dedicated a photography exhibition to Yemanja and I keep a shrine for her in my home, finding and making presents which I hope will please her.
-words and photo
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